How to eat well on a first trip
Food is half the reason to go. The good news for a first-timer: you don't need reservations, Japanese, or a big budget to eat well. Most of the dishes below come from counters, stalls and shops you can walk into. This list starts with the easiest and gets a little more adventurous.
Ramen: start at Ichiran
Ichiran is the easiest first bowl in Japan. You order at a ticket machine, tick your preferences (richness, noodle firmness, spice) on an English sheet, and eat in a solo booth. It is tonkotsu, a rich pork broth, and there are branches all over Tokyo, some open late. Once you have the hang of it, try a local shop with a queue outside.
Sushi: Tsukiji Outer Market
The fish market moved to Toyosu, but the Tsukiji Outer Market stayed: a few blocks of stalls and small sushi counters. Go in the morning. Many shops close by early afternoon.
Yakitori: Omoide Yokocho
Omoide Yokocho is a narrow lane of tiny yakitori bars beside Shinjuku station's west exit. Grilled chicken skewers, a drink, and a seat elbow to elbow with office workers. It's at its best in the evening.
Department-store food halls (depachika)
The basement food halls of Japan's department stores sell bento, sweets, fruit and ready-made dishes, beautifully packed. They're a cheap, easy lunch and the best place for gifts. Food halls mark down bento and ready-made food shortly before closing.
- Isetan Shinjuku
- Mitsukoshi Nihombashi and Mitsukoshi Ginza
- Takashimaya Nihombashi
- Daimaru Tokyo, at Tokyo Station: pick up an ekiben (train bento) before a Shinkansen ride
- Tokyu Food Show, under Shibuya Station
Convenience stores (konbini)
7-Eleven, FamilyMart and Lawson are on almost every corner, and their food is good: onigiri (rice balls), egg sandwiches, fried chicken at the counter. They make an easy breakfast or a late snack.
Monjayaki: Tokyo's own hotplate dish
Okonomiyaki belongs to Osaka and Hiroshima. Tokyo's own version is monjayaki, a runny batter you cook yourself on a hotplate at the table. Tsukishima Monja Street is lined with monja shops, and staff will show you how.
A few habits that help
- Look for a ticket machine by the door: you pay first, then hand over the ticket.
- Plastic food displays in the window show what's on the menu, so pointing works.
- Part 3 covers cash, cards and etiquette.
Planning the days around these meals? Part 1 has a relaxed Tokyo itinerary. For getting online in Japan, see our Japan eSIM guide. More destinations start from the Wakamo home page.
Sources
- Ichiran. The ramen recommendation and restaurant information.
- Tsukiji Outer Market. Market visitor information and food recommendations.